The Rhythm of Your Sessions: A Guide to Tracking Pitch Volume

What does a typical climbing day look like for you? Is it three hard pitches or ten easier ones? And how does that change when you're training hard versus just having fun?

Tracking the number of pitches you climb per session is a simple yet powerful way to understand the rhythm of your climbing. While it's not a perfect measure of fitness, it provides valuable insights into your session volume, consistency, and tolerance for work over time.

The Work Capacity chart tracks this metric. Think of it not as a definitive measure of "work," but as a tool to spot trends in your personal session density. It can help you see if you're building a solid base, peaking for a trip, or heading towards burnout.

How to Read the Chart: A Quick Guide

This chart tracks the average number of pitches you complete per outdoor session over time. It's typically displayed as a line graph.

• The Y-Axis (Height): Represents the average number of pitches per day.

• The X-Axis (Position): Shows the progression of time, usually month by month or season by season.

• The Line: The movement of the line shows the trend in your session volume.

The Golden Rule: Consistent Logging is Key

This chart is highly sensitive to how you log your days. Its power lies in tracking the trend of your personal, consistent logging habits.

• Log Everything: For this chart to be accurate, you must log all your climbs for a given day, including warm-ups and cool-downs. A day with only one logged "send" will read as a very low capacity day, even if you climbed 10 other routes.

• Be Consistent: If you sometimes log warm-ups and sometimes don't, your data will be noisy. The key is to be consistent with what you record.

When is This Chart Most Useful?

This metric is a specialized tool, not a universal measure. It shines brightest when:

• You are in a consistent training block at your local crag, climbing on similar types of routes.

• You want to track your ability to maintain volume over a long climbing trip.

• You want an objective measure to monitor for signs of fatigue when other variables (like climbing style and location) are stable.

What Your Chart Can Tell You: Spotting Your Fitness Trends

By analyzing the trend line—especially during periods of consistent climbing—you can gain deep insights.

The Rising Engine

• What it looks like: A steady, sustained upward trend in the line over several months of similar-style climbing.

• What it means: Your fitness base is improving. Your body is adapting to handle more volume, which is a crucial foundation for any performance goal.

The Peaking Athlete

• What it looks like: The line rises steadily leading up to a trip, holds high for a few weeks, and then tapers off as you return home.

• What it means: This is the classic signature of a successful training peak. You built your volume tolerance for a specific performance window.

The Fatigue Warning

• What it looks like: During a period of consistent training, the line begins a steady, downward trend over several weeks, even though you feel like you're still trying hard.

• What it means: This is a critical early warning sign of accumulating fatigue. Your body is no longer recovering fully between sessions. Ignoring this sign can lead to injury or deep burnout.

Putting Your Insights into Action

This chart allows you to move from subjective feelings to objective training decisions.

1. Guide Your Volume Blocks: This metric is perfect for a base-building phase where the goal is to increase volume.

   • Action: During a 4-week volume block, your primary goal can be to increase your average work capacity by one or two pitches per session on familiar terrain. A simple way to boost this number is to commit to logging an easy cooldown route at the end of every session. This not only increases your session density but is also great for recovery.

2. Manage Your Recovery Proactively: Don't wait until you feel completely wrecked to take a rest week. Let your data guide you.

   • Action: If you see your Work Capacity chart trend downwards for two consecutive weeks while your climbing style has remained the same, it's a strong signal to schedule a "deload" week with reduced volume.

3. Contextualize Your Archetype Goals:

   • A Performer in a projecting phase should expect their work capacity to drop. This chart helps them confirm they are successfully shifting from volume to intensity.

   • An Explorer tackling multi-pitch routes needs a high work capacity. They can use this chart to see if their single-pitch days are preparing them for the demands of a 10-pitch day.

What This Chart Isn't

• A True Measure of "Work": The fundamental limitation is that "pitches per session" is a proxy. A session with 3 pitches of 5.12 represents far more physiological work than 8 pitches of 5.6. This chart tracks session density, not intensity.

• A Tool for Comparison: This metric is highly dependent on your local crag (a single-pitch area vs. a multi-pitch one), your partners, and your personal style. It is a personal trendline, not a way to compare yourself to others.

Your ability to consistently perform throughout a climbing day is a key part of your underlying fitness. The Work Capacity chart gives you an objective lens into your session volume, allowing you to train smarter and rest better.

Now, head to the app and check your Work Capacity trend. Is the rhythm of your sessions aligned with the demands of your goals?